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"Floss" the inside of the hole by poking another clean rag back and forth through the hole. You'll end with some dirty and gooey schmutz on the drill bit and at the opening of the hole. Gently does it! Use a very low speed drill so as not to damage anything. To fix each key mechanism, run a 5/16" drill bit a couple of times through the hole of the mechanism. You now have 12 key mechanisms to repair. For now, just notice that there are two kinds - one for the black keys, one for the white. You can put them back on when you're done with the octave bank. These have a tendency to come off during handling of the weights. Note the little white plastic top-hat attached to the nylon bushings. (But don't panic if they get mixed up - you can always use another octave bank as a reference to see what the correct order is. Be sure to keep track of the order in which they come out. The weights will drop out of the black plastic housing as the shaft slides out.
Once it's moved a few inches, you can work the shaft out completely with pliers, using a back-and-forth twisting and pulling motion. Gently tap the aluminum shaft out from one end of the action assembly, using a hammer and screwdriver. Set the octave bank action assembly on a clean workspace (we don't want to get any crud stuck to the lubricated parts!). If you remove and disassemble all seven octave banks (eight, if you count the tiny four-note one at the top end), you'll wind up with a hopeless pile of parts, with no way to figure out what goes where.
(If they resist, try reaching underneath and gently tapping those little black retaining pins again.)įrom here on, work on just one octave at a time. Now you can pull each octave bank's action assembly right out from the frame. Here's where you'll be glad to use a power driver. About 10 small yogurt containers work for me. Before you start, make sure you have somewhere to put them where they won't get all mixed up. You'll be unscrewing many screws at each stage of the disassembly (about 200 screws in all). This project has several distinct stages: detaching the keyboard assembly from the other electronics that lie just under the front panel removing the keys from the keyboard assembly repairing the individual keys putting everything back together. But I hope you can read between the lines and the photos to figure out what's what. For this reason the photos don't always jive exactly with the corresponding text. The photos were taken during several different partial repair sessions, whereas the written text is about repairing all 88 keys at once. These are notes rather than a comprehensive "how to". It's painstaking (allow yourself an afternoon), but it's neither rocket surgery nor brain science. The only fix is to open up the whole thing, remove every single key, ream out the shaft-hole of each key with a 5/16" drill bit, lubricate each hole, and reassemble everything. An oft-cited defect of this product (which is no longer made or even supported by its Chinese manufacturer) is the tendency for keys to get stuck in the down position. UF Editor can edit,transfer and screen all message which is sent by UF,in order to use your UF more.The action of the CME UF8 keyboard controller is among the smoothest and most natural around.
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UF Editor is a tool software for CME UF Master Keyboard. I?ve used the original CME Driver for XP.
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